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Authentication

Counterfeits have improved considerably, particularly on vintage Pokémon and Yu-Gi-Oh!. Here are the checks you can run yourself, and what a photo can and cannot settle.

In short

The most reliable authenticity checks on a collectible card are: the light test (most genuine cards contain an opaque inner layer that blocks light from a lamp placed behind them), examining the print rosette under magnification (counterfeits often show an irregular or blurry dot pattern), comparing font and text positioning against a known-genuine copy, surface texture, and cut regularity. A photo analysis flags visible anomalies but does not replace these physical tests.

Checks you can run yourself

The light test

Hold a lamp behind the card. A genuine card has an inner layer that largely blocks light; many counterfeits let noticeably more through.

The print pattern

Under magnification, genuine printing shows a regular dot pattern. Counterfeits often show a blurry, irregular pattern or dots of uneven size.

Font and layout

Compare font, stroke weight and exact text positioning with a copy you trust. Fakes are often off by fractions of a millimetre.

Texture and cut

Surface texture, gloss level and corner cut regularity are hard to reproduce exactly.

What a photo analysis can do

Flag visible anomalies

Colour drift, misaligned text, atypical cutting, visibly coarse printing: these show up in the image.

But not decide

Definitive authentication requires physical examination: light test, thickness measurement, magnification, sometimes substrate analysis. That is exactly what a grading company sells.

Frequently asked questions

Get a suspicious card analysed

The analysis flags visible anomalies. For a valuable card, have it authenticated physically.